My quest for a clean ride.... and nitrous

[Jtultra]

Originally Posted by Shizuma

What's up with the y-junction on your fuel feed?

Also: Holy Battery Batman! That sucker is HUGE. Is that just for testing purposes or what?

As far as the fans go, check the wiring to the relays and make sure you didn't switch something around. I'd agree that a bubble or something in the coolant system could cause them to run continuously but if you're not running hot I doubt it. Are both of them running on or just the coolant one?

Check for vacuum leaks on the stumbling problem as well as the BB mod.

The y-junction is for the fuel solenoid in my nitrous system. It's plumbed like this: y-junction -> Fuel pressure safety switch -> Solenoid -> jets

lol no that's my battery. I have a contact with interstate batteries and got it for $75. For that price, I couldn't beat their quality and reliability. I also don't want to move the battery to the trunk.

I also doubt there are any bubbles in the system. I bled the shit out of the system and whenever I drive on the interstate the water temp gauge goes down. Both fans come on.

I've checked for vacuum leaks by running a propane over suspected areas to see if the RPMs jump. Most of my vacuum lines now are AN lines, which are also tight as I can make them. I may make something to pressurizes the IM to see if anything leaks.

[Shizuma]

Originally Posted by Jtultra

The y-junction is for the fuel solenoid in my nitrous system. It's plumbed like this: y-junction -> Fuel pressure safety switch -> Solenoid -> jets

lol no that's my battery. I have a contact with interstate batteries and got it for $75. For that price, I couldn't beat their quality and reliability. I also don't want to move the battery to the trunk.

I also doubt there are any bubbles in the system. I bled the shit out of the system and whenever I drive on the interstate the water temp gauge goes down. Both fans come on.

I've checked for vacuum leaks by running a propane over suspected areas to see if the RPMs jump. Most of my vacuum lines now are AN lines, which are also tight as I can make them. I may make something to pressurizes the IM to see if anything leaks.

Plug off all the vaccum lines to the intake manifold, cut up some aluminum cans (beer, soda, whatever) and use them to block the intake ports (think a gasket with no holes). Then bolt it back on and run some shop air into a vacuum line. Also check the coil packs and make sure they're seated correctly.

As for the fans, like I said have a look at the wiring/relays and make certain nothing got put back wrong. Good news is a constant on failure mode is the better of the two options. One of those fans has to do with the A/C system activating so you'll need to trace it and make sure you connected everything behind the HVAC plate correctly too.

[Jtultra]

Originally Posted by Shizuma

Plug off all the vaccum lines to the intake manifold, cut up some aluminum cans (beer, soda, whatever) and use them to block the intake ports (think a gasket with no holes). Then bolt it back on and run some shop air into a vacuum line. Also check the coil packs and make sure they're seated correctly.

As for the fans, like I said have a look at the wiring/relays and make certain nothing got put back wrong. Good news is a constant on failure mode is the better of the two options. One of those fans has to do with the A/C system activating so you'll need to trace it and make sure you connected everything behind the HVAC plate correctly too.

Hmmm I may wait and see what happens with the BB mod and then I'll tackle that. With all the stuff I've done, it's an absolute bitch to get the IM off.

As far as the fans, I went in to check the circuit of the plug and when I pulled it off, The entire sensor snapped off! luckily I was able to get the remaining probe out relatively easily. Went to the parts store and bought a new one to put in. The plug also has a good circuit to the ground and the ECU. Checked the HVAC plugs and the A/C circuits, all good. Fans are still on though.

The pump on my fucking aluminum jack also went out. I hate this car.

[Shizuma]

Originally Posted by Jtultra

Hmmm I may wait and see what happens with the BB mod and then I'll tackle that. With all the stuff I've done, it's an absolute bitch to get the IM off.

As far as the fans, I went in to check the circuit of the plug and when I pulled it off, The entire sensor snapped off! luckily I was able to get the remaining probe out relatively easily. Went to the parts store and bought a new one to put in. The plug also has a good circuit to the ground and the ECU. Checked the HVAC plugs and the A/C circuits, all good. Fans are still on though.

The pump on my fucking aluminum jack also went out. I hate this car.

Lol it's called Murphy's Law and it sucks. Don't get frustrated, take a break if you have to. You know you're going to need to get that BB mod under control so start working on that. Try pulling the relays for the fans one at a time until they stop then switch that one with another relay and see if they don't stay off. Normally a relay will make some kind of humming sound if it's stuck but hey.

Btw, have you broken in the engine yet?

[Jtultra]

Thanks for the encouraging words and your input so far. I'll check out those relays. As far break-in, I was taking it through the RPM ranges, but then the CEL kicked on and left doesn't engage. So right now I'm just driving it around. I have about 300 miles on it now.

Does anyone happen to know how to clear the airbag and cruise control light? I think I fixed the problems but they're still flashing.

[h8eternal]

Awesome work. This is going to surprise ally of people when you pop that hood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bloodytiger]

You have done an amazing job dude. You can do this for a living.

[Jtultra]

Originally Posted by bloodytiger

You have done an amazing job dude. You can do this for a living.

lol thanks, I've been told that by a few people. I think I'll just keep it as a hobby for now.

[Jtultra]

So I tested the MAF and it is a hair above the recommended resistance range. I went ahead and ordered a new one just in case. Should come in tomorrow or Tuesday. I also have been seeing the P0325 popping on and off. I checked the circuit, that was good; then the sensor, good as well; I also extended the wire a bit just in case. Then the light came back on. So I said fuck it and tried to plug in my powerFC to see if it was reading the knock sensor. Worked like a charm AND my fans didn't automatically come on. The fans kicked in about ~90 degrees Celsius. So now, I think there is something wrong with my ECU. Which I couldn't care less. I just need that thing to pass emissions.

The past couple of days, was just wiring. And this was my savior:



I installed the Viper 5701 remote start and DEI 530T auto up/down modulator.

It was one hell of a mess.


After tickering for a couple of hours with all the settings, I finally got it all working like a champ. Probably one of the more exciting things I've done.

The two let me;
- Remotely turn on my defroster
- Roll up my windows when I arm the alarm
- Roll down my windows to vent my car
- and of course remote start the car

Total life changer.

[Jtultra]

Below are all the wiring information needed to do the install for anyone interested.

Viper 5701

H1 Primary harness
Harness Wire color (function)[Wire color on car]||Location
H1/1 Red/white (Trunk release) [Red/white] - NOT USED
H1/2 Red (12v constant) [Black/red and white]||Ignition harness
H1/3 Brown (Siren out) [Red]||on siren, not car
H1/4 White/brown (Parking light isolation) NOT USED
H1/5 Black (Chassis ground) GROUND
H1/6 Violet (Door trigger in) NOT USED
H1/7 Blue (Trunk pin) [Light green]||BCM or trunk light
H1/8 Green (Door trigger in) [Red/white]||driver kick
H1/9 Black/white (Dome light out) NOT USED - Will interfere with remote start if used
H1/10 White/blue (Remote start input) NOT USED
H1/11 White (Parking light out) [Light green]|| Steering column
H1/12 Orange (Ground when armed) USE ONLY IF USING ANOTHER EXTERNAL MODULE SUCH AS DEI 530T- In that case, connect to ground when armed wire

H2 Aux harness
Harness Wire color (function)[Wire color on car]||Location
H2/1 Lt green/black (OEM disarm out)[Yellow/black]|| Passenger kick/BCM
H2/2 Orange/black (aux 4) NOT USED
H2/3 green/white (OEM arm out)[Brown]|| Passenger kick/BCM
H2/4 Violet/black (Aux 2) NOT USED
H2/5 White/black (Aux 3) NOT USED
H2/6 White/violet (Aux 1) NOT USED
H2/7 grey/black (Diesel wait) NOT USED
H2/8 Brown/black (Horn honk) [Blue/black]|| Steering column/BCM
H2/9 violet/white (Tach in) [Brown/white]|| Rear instrument panel
H2/10 Dark blue (Status out) NOT USED
H2/11 pink/white (Flex relay control) NOT USED
H2/12 orange (Accessory out) NOT USED
H2/13 purple (Starter out) NOT USED
H2/14 Pink (Ignition 1 out) NOT USED
H2/15 Grey (Hood pin in) [Hood pin wire]FROM SUPPLIED HOOD PIN
H2/16 blue/white (Rear defogger) [Defogger wire]
H2/17 brown (Brake shutdown) [Green/white]|| Brake switch
H2/18 black/white (E-brake in) [E-brake wire]

Door harness
Harness Wire color (function)[Wire color on car]||Location
1 Blue (Unlock out) [Yellow/black]|| Passenger kick/BCM - Connect with H1/1
2 none
3 Green (Lock out) [Brown]|| Passenger kick/BCM - Connect with H1/3

H3 heavy gauge harness
Harness Wire color (function)[Wire color on car]||Location
H3/1 Pink (Ignition 1) [Blue/red Ignition harness
H3/2 Red/white (Ignition 2) [Black/red or white]|| Ignition harness
H3/3 Orange (Accessory out) Grey [Ignition harness]||
H3/4 Violet (Starter out) [Black/white]|| Ignition harness - Car side of starter
H3/5 green (Starter in) [Black/white]|| Ignition harness - Key side of starter
H3/6 Red (Fused ignition 1) [Black/red or white]|| Ignition harness
H3/7 pink/white (Ignition 2) [Black/orange]|| Ignition harness - Car side of ignition
H3/8 pink/black (Flex relay in) [Black/orange]|| Ignition harness - Key side of ignition
H3/9 red/black (fused accessory in) [Black/red or white]|| Ignition harness

[Jtultra]

DEI 530T
Harness Wire color (function)[Wire color on car]||Location
H1/1 Violet (motor #1 ground path) GROUND
H1/2 Green (Motor #1 down) [Lt Green]|| Power window switch - Motor side of wire
H1/3 Blue (Motor #1 up) [Green]|| Power window switch - Motor side of wire
H1/4 Red (12V constant) [Black/red OR white]|| Ignition harness
H1/5 Black (Chassis ground) GROUND
H1/6 Violet/black (Motor #2 ground path) GROUND
H1/7 Green/black (Motor #2 down) [Red/black]|| Power window switch - Motor side of wire
H1/8 Blue/black (Motor #2 up) [Blue]|| Power window switch - Motor side of wire

H2/1 Brown (Up switch #1) [Green]|| Power window switch - Switch side of wire
H2/2 White (Down switch #1) [Lt green]|| Power window switch - Switch side of wire
H2/3 Red/white (Aux input) [red/white]|| Trigger/Aux wire from alarm
H2/4 orange (Ground when armed) [Orange]|| Ground when armed wire from alarm (orange for all Vipers)
H2/5 gray (Output during activation) NOT USED
H2/6 brown/black (up switch #2) [Blue]|| Power window switch - Switch side of wire
H2/7 White/black (Down switch #2) [red/black]|| Power window switch - Switch side of wire

[T3HKMAN]

Nice work and way to help the community, that lack of alarm prep hurts my eyes though.

[maveric22]

You had me drooling! Great build!

[Celicasaur]

How have I only just seen this thread now - dude this is absolutely amazing work!!! I love your approach to everything you've done and it's come out sooooo nice!!!! I also commend you on going for slightly lower compression with nitrous in mind.

I hate to sound like 'that guy' but I feel I should offer word of caution on the nitrous install from one Celica enthusiast to another...I might not have seen everything very clearly from the pics, but are the solenoids close to the firewall? If so, the pipe length to the front distribution block is too long and not ideal because the fuel needs to be pushed 'up' the piping, rather than 'down' - nitrous will come out at a zillion miles an hour, but the fuel will be comparatively slow. Hopefully nothing evil will happen, but you should bear this in mind when you plan to run the bigger doses, come the spring.

But seriously, major props to you on such a clean build and very well thought out set up!

[maveric22]

he wont have that problem if his fuel pressure is high enough

[Celicasaur]

Perhaps, but it's still a band-aid solution to an issue which, in my opinion, shouldn't exist in the first place. The reason why nitrous has such a bad reputation is because of small oversights like this which contribute to lean conditions

[maveric22]

I have never had lean issues, and my fuel T is a similar setup. I have never had lean issues. Have you ever ran spray before? This is a very popular setup..... the other way is a second fuel pump and fuel line, but with the stock fuel pump you can spray enough fuel for atleast a 50 shot and with a walboro (not sure on spelling), you can run enough fuel for a larger shot with only one fuel line and a T or Y.

[Celicasaur]

It will be fine for a 50 shot because 1) it's at least evenly distributed per cylinder and 2) yes the stock fuel system will provide ample pressure for it, but I'm going on the assumption that he's aiming for well over 100 because he's fitted some nice low comp forged pistons. I'm not saying he'll necessarily do damage right now, but it's far from optimal and by having such a long pipe length, it's just a bad start to the nitrous game IMO.

I used to run nitrous when I was stock - ~60hp on a single injector before the maf. I used to also run ~80hp on my built motor via a cell in the engine bay running 105 octane fuel. Nitrous is awesome, I love it! I'll be running a heavy shot on my new motor too

[Thomas]

Any news here? I'm wondering of it all worked out as supposed to.

[Celicasaur]

Originally Posted by Thomas

Any news here? I'm wondering of it all worked out as supposed to.

Worked out very nicely. There's a thread in the Performance Mods section posted by illusive. The nitrous gives a juicy 75hp increase in power

I'd get you the link, but I'm on the train and don't know how to on this phone.

[Ripz]

I'm very impatient to see tis thing finished already!