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Old 08-24-2005, 06:54 AM   #1
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Failed center console lights description/fix

This document describes the problem and solution of the 2000+ Toyota Celica center console lights failing. After months of research, personal diagnostics, and taking my car to 2 dealerships, I have found the solution to the problem of the center console lights failing. The second dealership found the solution and explained what is described in this document.

Description

For me and several other 2000+ Toyota Celica owners the problem is as described: the center console lights have failed, more specifically the lights for the temperature, fan, and air blower redirection knobs. The light behind the hazard button also does not work. There may be different lights that do not work which are connected to the dimming system but I haven

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Old 08-24-2005, 06:56 AM   #2
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Hey Larry let me know you if notice anything that I need to change. Well that goes for anyone. I don't have a BS in English and I'm not an electrical engineer so there are probably mistakes in there somewhere.

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Old 08-27-2005, 12:36 AM   #3
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Try this...

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=177355


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Old 02-24-2006, 07:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2way
The real problem is a break in the Wht/Grn wire that leads to the combination meter & is controlled by the dash rheostat dimmer. The "real" solution is to track down which wire it is & where it is broken.

If someone who has this problem does that... it is probably a common location that is somehow scraped or otherwise subject to damage when the console or combo meter is removed.... then please publish the location you find & it will become the 1st place to inspect.
Yes.... it could be an internal trace or connection in the combo meter. Thanks patesgt for publishing your "findings". [QUOTE=patesgt] I personally believe this is a flaw in the car itself which can result in certain conditions. Most cases are caused by an aftermarket electrical component installation or
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:02 PM   #5
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This will solve the problem also....
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Old 04-14-2006, 04:30 PM   #6
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FYI to others, that^ just grounds the console lights in a different location and does not restore the dimming ability for the center console/radio lights.
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Old 04-14-2006, 07:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2way
FYI to others, that^ just grounds the console lights in a different location and does not restore the dimming ability for the center console/radio lights.
I thought dimmer worked.... I'll try it out again to make sure...
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooly
I didn't want to cut the stock wires so I went around and did this...
I have one gauge cluster that disables the light in the center console....
This did the trick, but when I turn on the head light radio remain lit at full intensity... I guess this is the down side of this... dimmer works though....
Or maybe it's just my gauge cluster??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooly
That's good... My stock radio is bright as hell now at night time....
It's blue and red combo....
LCD section is red, so it's sticks out like sore thumb...
This would be good if you don't want to cut through stock wireing..

Just little bit of soldering, but it's reversable back to original....
Umm... you already did. Dimmer will work on the gauge... but not on the center console lights. You just grounded the center console/radio lights... that's why they are on at full brightness. If you can spare that USDM combo meter that has the bad center console lighting... I can try troubleshooting it.
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:20 PM   #9
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You wanna mess around with the gauge cluster(one that cause center console light to turn off)??
You can try if you like.. I can ship it to you.....
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Old 04-20-2006, 07:34 PM   #10
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Sure, I'm willing to give it a go... I'll return it. Just need a failed one to trace out where it goes bad...

I'll pm you an e-mail address.
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Old 04-20-2006, 08:06 PM   #11
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Yea.. PM me your information, so that I can ship them out to you....
This one has TRD Center Tach Gauge Face on it..
You can have the real experience with them....
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Old 07-07-2006, 08:42 PM   #12
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when jumping the wire across the cluster why not use a rheostat from a comp fan conrtoller or a radio shack special? i think ima go try it tomorrow and see how it goes... hell could be an extra "bling" knob

thank god for my PhD in "Afro Engineering"
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Old 07-08-2006, 08:58 AM   #13
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The real solution is replacing the faulted MOSFET dimming transistor on the Combination Meter's board (circled in red). I bought extras & will sell them off. I'm waiting for Dooly to confirm the fix. [EDIT: THE FIX HAS BEEN CONFIRMED]


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Old 07-10-2006, 09:19 PM   #14
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i got same problem but i dunno wich one to follow.... hehehehe
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:43 PM   #15
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Replace Dimming Circuit Transistor

Well, pending Dooly's actual confirmation that I solved the problem with his spare Combo Meter... I'll put out what I found & the repair process.[EDIT: THE FIX HAS BEEN CONFIRMED]

1st, the schematic of the dimming circuit is crude and not exactly factual. In any event, on Dooly's spare Combination Meter (gauge cluster) that exhibited the problem with the center console lights not working, I found that the power MOSFET dimming transistor (highlighted in red in my previous post) for those lamps was shorted from Gate to Drain. Failures of power MOSFETS is not uncommon. They are electrostatic sensitive.

If you've ever done LED mods, you can do this repair.

What you will need:
(1) 2SK2231Q-ND or 2SK2231TE16LCT-ND MOSFET N-CH 60V 5A 2-7J1B transistor
fine tip soldering iron
small amount of solder
sharp tipped small flathead screwdriver, x-acto knife, or other small knife

After removing the gauge cluster from the dash, removing the white back cover, and separating the rear board; flip the rear board over to locate the transistor highlighted in the pic. With the heated soldering iron, heat the metal tab until the solder underneath the tab flows. Once the solder flows, carefully pry up the tab away from the board about 1/8"-1/4" using the fine tip flathead or knife. Now heat the remaining small legs one at a time and lift them from the board with the screwdriver or knife. The transistor should be free from the board after the 2nd leg is lifted & you can remove the transistor. Replacing with the new transistor is almost the reverse. Put the transistor in place so that the 2 lower legs line up with the pads. Heat the metal top tab & apply a minimum amount of solder until the tab sinks & attaches to the board. Ensure that the 2 lower legs still line up with the pads. Now solder each one of the 2 legs to their associated pads. Put the boards back together. Replace the rear white cover and re-install in the dash. DONE

The 2SK2231Q-ND transistor is available from http://www.digikey.com. However, I bought a bunch of extras and will sell/ship them to anyone in the US for $5.75 (via PayPal) while my supply lasts. After that, you'll have to buy them from Digi-Key for more than $7. PM me for further info.

NOTE: The specific transistor noted above is no longer stocked by DigiKey. My supplies have dwindled. It appears that http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...231TE16RQCT-ND is a suitable replacement part. But, I have not tested it.
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Old 01-09-2007, 08:14 PM   #16
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Update:

I have purchased one of the transistors from 2Way and have installed it and tested, it does appear to be the proper fix. My dimming is fully restored just like factory. The actual number on the transistor was the same as the factory one as well.

Props to you 2Way, you have supplied us with a proper fix.
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Old 01-10-2007, 02:55 PM   #17
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Thanks for confirming the fix
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Old 04-05-2007, 06:27 PM   #18
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yep it worked for me too, thanks 2way!
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:06 PM   #19
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can someone please post a full guide with pics for this problem. I have encountered exactly the problem explained above, and I believe it resulted from me cutting the white/green dimmer wire while the batter was still attached. I want to fix this asap and want to know exactly what I need to do. I am completely amazed that 2way went through all that trouble to pinpoint this problem, thank god for him. So if anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it!!!
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Old 09-13-2010, 04:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinbruck86 View Post
can someone please post a full guide with pics for this problem. I have encountered exactly the problem explained above, and I believe it resulted from me cutting the white/green dimmer wire while the batter was still attached. I want to fix this asap and want to know exactly what I need to do. I am completely amazed that 2way went through all that trouble to pinpoint this problem, thank god for him. So if anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it!!!
There is no guide for this, you just need to swap out the mosfet....
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:25 AM   #21
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I saw in the picture that there was a red wire going from one point to another, is that a modification? or is it like that already? Do I need to do that also? Or do I just swap the mosfet transistor? I really want to get this fixed as soon as I possible can so I can enjoy my new blue led's!!!
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:30 AM   #22
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also, does anyone have any spare transistors left over???? i see that digikey doesn't seem to have any in stock, and I have no idea where else to get one. If anyone knows where to find them please let me know!!!!!
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:48 AM   #23
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I saw in the picture that there was a red wire going from one point to another, is that a modification? or is it like that already? Do I need to do that also? Or do I just swap the mosfet transistor?
The red wire had been added to ground the lights on high because of the failed transistor. It was removed when the transistor was replaced.
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:01 PM   #24
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well thats good to hear, so the additional grounding isn't necessary after the transistor has been replaced eh? because I don't want to chance it happening again.
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:15 PM   #25
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well thats good to hear, so the additional grounding isn't necessary after the transistor has been replaced eh? because I don't want to chance it happening again.
If you don't use the transistor, you can just use the red wire to by pass it..
It's gona work, but you'll loose the dimmer funcion....
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:31 AM   #26
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I really want my dimming function, since I just finally got it wired into my stereo last week, im really enjoying it now, lol. I'm waiting on pm from 2way about the transistors, because I think he's one of the few places I can get one from. Hopefully he replies quickly, because I want that transistor as soon as I can get it!!
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Old 09-16-2010, 08:27 AM   #27
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since I just finally got it wired into my stereo last week, im really enjoying it now, lol.
Probably what blew it. The dimming on the Celica is the reverse of what most HU's require. Most HU's want varying +12V. The Celica varies the path to GND.
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Old 09-16-2010, 09:42 AM   #28
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2way, you've got payment!
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:16 PM   #29
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just got my transistor in from 2way and got it soldered in. re-installed the gauge cluster and still have the same problem i had before. none of my hvac lights/hazard/cig lighter light up still. Although my gauges have regained their full dimming capability, I am at a loss for the rest of the problem. If anyone has any idea what my problem might be please let me know.....
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:34 PM   #30
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i mean if my dimming works, then nothing could have went wrong with the replacing of the transistor could it? Is it possible that the tab isn't down well enough and its not grounding solidly? I just am trying to think of any explanation for why I am the exception to this fix..... please help
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:30 PM   #31
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You probably still have the original problem on the outboard dimming circuit that blew the transistor in the 1st place.
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:55 PM   #32
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then that must mean that the original problem is that my headunit has the white/green dimming wire spliced into the orange illumination wires in my aftermarket wiring harness. if I detach the white/green wire from the orange ones, should that fix the problem? or have I already burnt the brand new transistor you just sent me? good god i hope thats not the case.... would there be any real way to tell if it was burnt?
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:12 PM   #33
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well i just detached the dimming wire from the head unit, and it didnt affect anything. now im worried i already burned out my new transistor. although my gauge dimming still works, so i think that means i didnt burn it our right? really running out of ideas here...
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Old 09-25-2010, 07:55 AM   #34
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i'm wondering if running the red wire would provide the "solution" for my console lights problem. at this point i would give up my dimming for my lights to just work. i realy want to see my new LED's in action, but im not going to install them until this is fixed....
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Old 09-26-2010, 10:00 AM   #35
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ran the red wire today, all lights functioning again, and the dimming to my gauges still works. Thank god.... now all i need to do is put in my new blue LED's!!
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:19 AM   #36
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now im worried i already burned out my new transistor.
Probably toast.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2way View Post
Probably what blew it. The dimming on the Celica is the reverse of what most HU's require. Most HU's want varying +12V. The Celica varies the path to GND.
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