OCV thread

[2way]

I was referring to the rattle. And thinking about it..... the OCV is duty cycled... that would explain alot. Low pressure, OCV switching on/off, pin releasing/re-locking = rattle till pressure builds up. It also explains why it stops if you disconnect the OCV. The pin locks.

But, that area on the gear will always wear because of the lock/release pattern.

[GSBoek]

I know hehe, on the old oil pump, the new gear had a tiny bit of the rattle once in a while at idle. With the new oil pump I haven't heard it anymore.

[choi0706]

how much are these supposed to move when you apply power to them? I'm seeing only a small change in movement..

OCV

[GSBoek]

It's not much, maybe 1/4" or less.

[l3ksi]

I have a 2000 celica GTS - automatic transmission

2 months ago my car was throwing an OCV malfunction code - P1693. When I went on a trip last month I left my interior light on, and I drained my battery. When I got home from my trip I recharged my battery and my engine check light was off. Ever since my battery drained itself, my car isnt throwing the code any more. Before when I use to rev over 6grand my car would throw the code. Now I can rev my car to 7grand and nothing happens.

I was going to order a new OCV from toyota and they quoted me 150.90 for the part, and 107 for an hour labour. Do i need to replace the part? Or since the code isnt coming up is it ok?

What is everyone's opinion on the matter?

[GSBoek]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you can hit lift fine now just keep up with regular maintenance, specially oil changes. Only change it if it comes back.

[bamaboy1626]

anyone got the OCV part #s for a 2000 gt-s?

[2way]

Originally Posted by bamaboy1626

anyone got the OCV part #s for a 2000 gt-s?

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

Find any part number you'd like.

[bamaboy1626]

what do the OCVs run. I think I got a really good deal here locally from Orielly. The girl there had to order it from Toyota, but she gave me her price.

[RekindledSpirit]

I just checked my OCV... looks good, BUT my screen is stuck inside and from what I could see, it doesn't look like it's in good shape. Adding to my list of items to replace...

[farm]

Well I'm getting the rattle sound too, so I tried to unplug my OCV wire to see if the OCV was actually the culprit.
Sound is still there, and doesn't seem to attenuate.

That means it's most likely the camgear/lockpin as you explained in the earlier posts ?

BTW, its normal that it's throwing a CEL after i unplug the wire?

[GSBoek]

Yeah, the CEL is normal, it will reset itself after two or three startups when the ECU registers that everything is working properly.

[celi01]

i'm getting the tractor noise now. it started randomly middle of this summer and is now constant at normal temp. would you say it is bad for the engine and the cam-gear should be replaced asap?

[GSBoek]

Let me put it like this: If the source is indeed the camgear you might get away with it for some time. I drove on my old one for 2 years. Usually when you unplug the OCV the noise should go away, regardless if it's caused by the OCV itself being faulty or the camgear being faulty.

[celi01]

nothing happened when i unplugged it. and im throwing a buncha misfire codes now. idk if you can help me out there. so im trying to think is it actually the camgear? im putting up a video here shortly

http://newcelica.org/forums/showthre...wpost&t=308665

[gotlag1789]

hey i have a question lol. sorry to randomly bring it up but this is the OCV. soooo i bought the car used. tried to hit lift ( this was back in november ) and i got a CEL, diagnosed it p1693. CLOSED OCV malfunction. i just cleared it because it was snowing and hitting lift on slush is death lol. but now i wanna fix it, tried it again yesterday and i got the same CEL p1693. ive taken off the housing and cleaned the little mesh screen with brake cleaner. and tried to take out the lift OCV but it didnt seem to budge. ^^ earlier in the post somebody mentioned that there are breather tubes that you gotta take off? and also. when i do get it out. just soak it w/ break cleaner? lol. and my car seems like its revving realllll high and loud. like when i get close to 6k it sounds like its gonna blow up. does the car do this b/ of the OCV not working? i honestly dont think its supposed to sound liek that.

[GSBoek]

The breather tube removal is for the timing OCV (next to the alternator). The lift OCV should come out of the housing when you remove the 10mm nut holding it in place. If it's stuck to the housing you probably have sludge buildup in the housing/OCV, conceivably this could be causing the P1693. You need to take the OCV out of the housing and test it to see if the plunger is moving both ways. Many times it's not enough to just clean the filter, you need to clean the whole housing and OCV. I wouldn't use brake cleaner on the OCV though.

[gotlag1789]

^^ oh alright thanks a lot man. yeah from reading all of this im hoping thats all it is, the buildup of junk in there. what do you suggest cleaning the housing and OCV with? and as for the car drivin like 3k is 6k is that normal w/ an OCV malfunction?... lol

thanks man

[JameX]

Originally Posted by gotlag1789

^^ oh alright thanks a lot man. yeah from reading all of this im hoping thats all it is, the buildup of junk in there. what do you suggest cleaning the housing and OCV with? and as for the car drivin like 3k is 6k is that normal w/ an OCV malfunction?... lol

thanks man

Diesel.

[gotlag1789]

diesel? lol. alright. sounds good. tearin it down tonight. fill you guys in on what happens

[2way]

or kerosene

[6strngs]

I just replaced both my filters tonight. Got both of them from 1sttoyotaparts.com for about $9 + shipping so I figured I'd just replace them instead of cleaning them.

I didn't know that when you remove the lift OCV housing a bunch of oil comes out of it! Spilled oil all over the back of my engine... hopefully it'll burn off on it's own cause I couldn't really reach my hand back there to wipe much of it up. And the timing filter would've been pretty easy, I just took the belt off and top bolt out of the alternator and loosened the bottom bolt which allowed me to move the alternator about 2-3 inches and gave me more than enough room to get a wrench in there and get the filter out. Unfortunately the O-ring that's on the bolt fell off into the abyss and I spent over an hour looking for it. Eventually ended up pulling the whole alternator to find it. But it was all a waste of time because the filters were both perfect without so much as a speck of dirt on either. I guess frequent oil changes with good oil and filters really will make them last forever without the need for cleaning (i'm at 90K btw)

Anyway, just want to thank you for the guide, I wouldn't have even known those filters existed without it

[Lupo]

Maybe someone can help me.

[Error P1349]


I've found my OCV broken into its housing.

I'm afraid something else could be damaged into the engine head .











....

[GSBoek]

Ouch, I'm afraid the only way to get everything out is pulling the head. This is probably the first broken OCV tip I've seen.

[Pocket Rocket]

is it really necessary to replace these - unless you really neglect your oil changes? or do you get a bit of residual sticking over time - i use flush but thinking the lift one will never get cleaned so maybe they are worth replacing/cleaning? i'll inspect mine and if i find anything i'll post some pics.

[ungeeked]

Hi All..

I drive a Camry and my car started showing up P1349 a couple of months ago.. initally, the CEL came on and went off.. but now its on permanently.

I took it to the dealer and he said he wud need to replace the camgear (without checking much).. and gave me an estimate of $650.

I have never worked on a car before. This is my first car. Naturally I want to avoid screwing it up.

Firstly, I want to know is there anything I can do to clean up the OCV without actually taking anything apart? Any additives to the engine oil or anything without taking stuff apart? Even if such solutions are temporary, I would be glad to know.

IF NOT, then do I need to take the whole engine out of the car to replace the OCV? Or is just a few screws and I can reach out for the OCV easily?

Also, since I am a first timer, should I be trying it out myself?

ANY HELP IS DEEPLY APPRECIATED


PS. I am sorry for my really novice language.

[farhanali89]

Originally Posted by Pocket Rocket

is it really necessary to replace these - unless you really neglect your oil changes? or do you get a bit of residual sticking over time - i use flush but thinking the lift one will never get cleaned so maybe they are worth replacing/cleaning? i'll inspect mine and if i find anything i'll post some pics.

Usually if you keep up with your oil changes the OCVs should be fine. Its the screens for the OCV which you want to clean to avoid them getting clogged up. There small plastic mesh things.

Its advised to clean them if you dont keep up with regular oil changes.
I recently did mine around 4 months ago and i didnt find anything unusual.

Originally Posted by ungeeked

Hi All..

I drive a Camry and my car started showing up P1349 a couple of months ago.. initally, the CEL came on and went off.. but now its on permanently.

I took it to the dealer and he said he wud need to replace the camgear (without checking much).. and gave me an estimate of $650.

I have never worked on a car before. This is my first car. Naturally I want to avoid screwing it up.

Firstly, I want to know is there anything I can do to clean up the OCV without actually taking anything apart? Any additives to the engine oil or anything without taking stuff apart? Even if such solutions are temporary, I would be glad to know.

IF NOT, then do I need to take the whole engine out of the car to replace the OCV? Or is just a few screws and I can reach out for the OCV easily?

Also, since I am a first timer, should I be trying it out myself?

ANY HELP IS DEEPLY APPRECIATED


PS. I am sorry for my really novice language.

It is not to difficult to change them really but if you are not confident in carrying out the repair yourself then i would leave it to a professional.

Usually there is one bolt holding the strainer and one holding the actual ocv, im not sure where they are located on your car but i know usually on the right side of the engine head is most probably where the ocv should be on your car.

On the 2ZZ-GE we have the Lift OCV on the alternator side and a VVT ocv on the right side of the head.

[Gravel]

Hi guys - I hope you can help me with my sickly 2ZZ - I guess my question might be better in the lift-diagnosis thread, but that's locked...

Anwyay, I seem to have lost lift (I can't hear it and my boost pressure is double what it should be above 6200 rpm)...

I have no CELs - or pending CELs.

I tried the 'manually fire up the VVT-L OCV and stall the engine test', the engine nearly stalls, but then recovers and runs roughly. I decided to call this a fail, so I bought a new OCV, filter and gasket, and replaced all three. Repeated the test, and the car still won't stall, and has no lift when driven. The VVT-i OCV also seems to affect idle when manually fired, so it's moving too.

I've had the cam-cover off, and replaced the lift-bolts which were fine anyway - didn't notice any damage to rockers or cam wear, but didn't really check too hard, just took some pics.

As the ECU is happy with the oil-pressure when the OCV activates (and throws CEL's during my manual activation of it under idle), it would seem there is plenty of oil in the VVT-L OCV. Can it my rocker-shafts be full of enough sludge to disable lift? And if so, what can I clean them out with, without simply forcing all the sludge into the engine?

Cheers.

[2way]

Originally Posted by Gravel

the engine nearly stalls, but then recovers and runs roughly.

Sounds right.

Originally Posted by Gravel

The VVT-i OCV also seems to affect idle when manually fired, so it's moving too.

Check/

Originally Posted by Gravel

double what it should be above 6200 rpm

Can you go above 7K??

Originally Posted by Gravel

be full of enough sludge

Have you seen sludge evidence elsewhere? I believe Gio advised that you could clean some of the passageway from the VVTL OCV w/a pipe cleaner. But, if you pulled the VVTL OCV and cleaned, you'd have certainly seen any evidence of sludge there.

Are you running an aftermarket oil pump? Any leaks on the turbo oil cooler or turbo? Although, if this were the issue, you would think it would pop an OCV CEL.

Sounds either mechanical (lift bolts, rotated rocker arm, something valvetrain broken (like a slipper follower), or its oil pressure related in the head beyond the pressure sensor - plugged passageway or cockeyed rocker arm, too much rocker arm slop, etc.

Originally Posted by ungeeked

I drive a Camry

V6 from the sludge prone years?

Originally Posted by ungeeked

do I need to take the whole engine out of the car to replace the OCV?

Hell no!

[Gravel]

Hi 2way, thanks for the reply!

Originally Posted by 2way

Sounds right.Check/
Can you go above 7K??

Yes - I can go all the way to 8000+ rpm...

Have you seen sludge evidence elsewhere? I believe Gio advised that you could clean some of the passageway from the VVTL OCV w/a pipe cleaner. But, if you pulled the VVTL OCV and cleaned, you'd have certainly seen any evidence of sludge there.

- No sludge, I did clean my OCV filter when I checked the lift bolts, but there was nothing much on it. Replaced it anyway when I changed the OCV - they're just

[farhanali89]

[QUOTE=Gravel;5024842]Hi 2way, thanks for the reply!



Yes - I can go all the way to 8000+ rpm...




- No sludge, I did clean my OCV filter when I checked the lift bolts, but there was nothing much on it. Replaced it anyway when I changed the OCV - they're just

[2way]

Originally Posted by Gravel

Yes - I can go all the way to 8000+ rpm...

Sounds like you've got lift, then. Unless the S/C can push you that high on the lower lobe.

['01gtcelica]

how much did a new vvti actuator cost you GSBoek? is there a way to check if i do need a new one? my engine has the tractor noise, and it doesnt go away when i unplug the ocv. the screen was clean, and when i applied power to the ocv my engine stalled almost immediately. if it stalled does this mean the cam gear is still good, or can it still be whats causing the ticking? thanks alot in advance.

[Gravel]

Originally Posted by farhanali89

if you have a moment i posted this diy thread up a few weeks ago. Someone had a lift problem a while back down here.

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315534

have a quick read and if you get a moment pull off the rocker cover and have a look for the signs it may allow you to cancel out a larger problem if its not things you have already checked

Thanks - that was the closed thread I would have liked to have posted in!

I didn't see any cam/rocker damage when I changed out the slightly worn but intact lift bolts, but it sounds like I could have broken rockers and not be able to tell without feeling behind them. I guess this means removing the camshafts?

[Gravel]

Originally Posted by 2way

Sounds like you've got lift, then. Unless the S/C can push you that high on the lower lobe.

Well actually, it really doesn't 'sound' like there's any change over at 6x00 rpm - you can run without boost at any rpm on the s/c if you use part-throttle, and there is no change of engine note around where it should enter lift

The data-logs I get also show that rather than the boost pressure dropping suddenly as I transition into lift, as it used to, it does infact climb - suggesting that I'm still on the low cam.

[farhanali89]

Originally Posted by Gravel

Thanks - that was the closed thread I would have liked to have posted in!

I didn't see any cam/rocker damage when I changed out the slightly worn but intact lift bolts, but it sounds like I could have broken rockers and not be able to tell without feeling behind them. I guess this means removing the camshafts?

Ah damn i see, yes i asked a moderator to pin it up as a read through so that maybe why no one can post in it.

It is very possible that the lift bolts may still be intact but wont indicate a broken rocker, The individual whos vehicle was suffering the lift problem only noticed marks on the camshaft lobes. I would have a proper look on the lobes, Rub a nail through to see if you can feel any irregular grooves.

It is definitely possible the rockers could be broken. If you have caught this early im sure it wont be to large of a job, The member had to have a head rebuild because the problem was present for so long and it ended up bending a valve.

If you have any luck in checking let us know and i hope its not to big of a problem.

[2way]

Originally Posted by Gravel

The data-logs I get also show that rather than the boost pressure dropping suddenly as I transition into lift, as it used to, it does infact climb - suggesting that I'm still on the low cam.

Yeah, that part was bothering me too.

Any issues in the data logs w/temps? Stock ECU w/management or aftermarket ECU? If a stock ECU thinks the engine isn't to temp, it won't switch over and won't pop a CEL. Which would also go in line as another possible problem. Everything would physically check fine, as is your case, but not engage the 2nd cam in actual driving.

[Gravel]

Originally Posted by 2way

Yeah, that part was bothering me too.

Any issues in the data logs w/temps? Stock ECU w/management or aftermarket ECU? If a stock ECU thinks the engine isn't to temp, it won't switch over and won't pop a CEL. Which would also go in line as another possible problem. Everything would physically check fine, as is your case, but not engage the 2nd cam in actual driving.

The logs show sensible looking water temps, and I would have thought the rev-limit would be stuck at 7000 odd if the ECU thought the car was cold?

I'm running the stock ECU + Emanage Ultimate, so I shouldn't have messed with the valve-timing at all.

It's quite possible that my ECU is the problem, but I can't rule out something mechanical either as I can't completely stall the engine by firing the lift-OCV manually. The diagnostic guide (DI-140) just says "Check the engine speed - OK, Engine Stalled." but says 'stalled or rough engine speed' when you fire the OCV via a magic Toyota hand-held tester

I am half tempted to splice in an LED and resistor on the OCV signals and see if it lights up when I hit 6200 rpm - can't really do that on my driveway!

[Gravel]

Originally Posted by farhanali89

Ah damn i see, yes i asked a moderator to pin it up as a read through so that maybe why no one can post in it.

It is very possible that the lift bolts may still be intact but wont indicate a broken rocker, The individual whos vehicle was suffering the lift problem only noticed marks on the camshaft lobes. I would have a proper look on the lobes, Rub a nail through to see if you can feel any irregular grooves.

It is definitely possible the rockers could be broken. If you have caught this early im sure it wont be to large of a job, The member had to have a head rebuild because the problem was present for so long and it ended up bending a valve.

If you have any luck in checking let us know and i hope its not to big of a problem.

Cheers - I think I may try and clear out the garage enough to get the Celica in, and take the cam-cover back off over the weekend.

[2way]

Originally Posted by Gravel

can't really do that on my driveway!

Yes, you can. You don't have to be in gear to switch over to the 2nd cam.

Originally Posted by Gravel

I would have thought the rev-limit would be stuck at 7000 odd if the ECU thought the car was cold?

I don't think it rev limits in the case of it being cold. It just stays on the small cam. With the S/C, you're probably able to go beyond a N/A on that cam.

[Gravel]

Originally Posted by 2way

Yes, you can. You don't have to be in gear to switch over to the 2nd cam.

LOL, no I meant I can't get away with doing that on my driveway - gf and neighbours would not be impressed and my ears would be bleeding if my head was under the bonnet monitoring the OCV signals

I don't think it rev limits in the case of it being cold. It just stays on the small cam. With the S/C, you're probably able to go beyond a N/A on that cam.

I could be wrong, but the few times my car's been too cold for lift, it's felt very much like a fuel cut at 7,000 rpm

[2way]

Originally Posted by Gravel

it's felt very much like a fuel cut at 7,000 rpm

I don't recall... so, it may be the case. If true, then you are definitely looking at something mechanical or oil related.

['01gtcelica]

hey do you guys have any suggestions for me?:]

[Gravel]

I just had an idea - as my new VVT-L OCV didn't fix anything, and the old one works fine, I decided to try driving with the old-OCV connected to the ECU so that even if it tries, it can't engage lift.

The result was that the car felt pretty much the same, but the moment the car hit about 6200 rpm, I got a 1683 CEL - as the ECU had tried and failed to operate the Lift-OCV. So it looks like this really is an oil/mechanical problem somewhere beyond the Lift-OCV...

Time to take the lid off the engine again...

[2way]

Originally Posted by '01gtcelica

hey do you guys have any suggestions for me?:]

Buy a GT-S & double your trouble. Actually, where you have a '01 GT that may be subject to oil burning and your description - I'd suspect you've got rod knock.

Originally Posted by Gravel

Time to take the lid off the engine again...

Lucky you

['01gtcelica]

Originally Posted by 2way

Buy a GT-S & double your trouble. Actually, where you have a '01 GT that may be subject to oil burning and your description - I'd suspect you've got rod knock.

Lucky you

actually, i have had her go dry on me before, and had to change the rod bearings. the bearing on cylinder no.1 was scratched and scored a little bit causing the knock, and the crank was still good. havnt had a knock since then, and i know what it sounds like. i have been checking the oil almost every other day, and go through 4 quarts every 2500 miles now. but this definitely sounds like the valves. would a worn vvti actuator cause this noise?

[2way]

Originally Posted by '01gtcelica

go through 4 quarts every 2500 miles now.

If you're not already, switch to a high mileage oil.

Originally Posted by '01gtcelica

but this definitely sounds like the valves. would a worn vvti actuator cause this noise?

Possibly oil starvation to the VVT?

[Gravel]

Well, I've taken my cams out - they look and feel fine, all the rockers look & feel fine, and the valves look fine as far as I can see! I will take a shed load of pics though...

What would happen to the valve-timing if the ECU thought there was a shed load of knock going on?

['01gtcelica]

Originally Posted by 2way

If you're not already, switch to a high mileage oil.
Possibly oil starvation to the VVT?

im currently using mobil1 fully synthetic 10w-30 high milage with a high milage filter, nothing seems to help. looking for a 2zz to swap lol.

what exactly do you mean by oil starvation to the vvt? how do i check? and it hasnt ran more that a half a quart low since september when i had to drop the pan. and the noise just started maybe a month and a half ago.

[Gravel]

So, I've just put my engine back together - couldn't see anything wrong with the cams, valves or rockers. I still have no lift, but no CELs...

What do I check next? I'm really stumped